Vulcain ticks quite a few boxes for the average fake watch connoisseur. Currently based out of Le Locle (previously La Chaux-de-Fonds), Vulcain has been active in Switzerland since 1858. It has been seen on the wrists of Truman, Eisenhower, Johnson and nearly every other U.S. president since. It was the first brand to replace radium with tritium. It claimed the first alarm complication on a wristwatch in 1947, and then kept it audible at over 200 meters underwater in 1961. Its movements are nearly all in-house, well-finished and chambered in stunning vintage-style cases (we brought you a hands-on with its Nautical Seventies model last year). Now that we can check off heritage, innovation and quality ?Vulcain's small manufacture is adding a splash of color and fun to its collections in 2014.
Specifically, the '50s Presidents?line is going both classic and bold in its choices. We're talking about the Cricket ?the first wristwatch with an alarm function. The Cricket now comes in tobacco and raspberry-toned dials and matching Louisiana alligator leather straps. The dials have a rich sunburst finish and a pastel appeal to boot. Dauphine hands point to applied hour markers that are actually beveled. The case is a 42 mm finely polished stainless steel ?probably Vulcain's concession to a more modern sized watch. However, for the purists, the Cricket has a cambered sapphire crystal, giving it that vintage vibe.
Speaking of vibes, if you've never handled a Cricket or seen us handle a Cricket, it's a unique experience. Winding the crown forward winds the watch, and winding it backward winds the alarm. Activating the pusher at 2 o'clock ejects the crown, which can then be rotated to set the alarm (arrow hand) to the desired time. Push the crown back in and you've got a wake-up call.
Inside the cricket you'll find the V-11, a Vulcain manufactured manual movement that is visible though a sapphire case back. Key features include two barrels, a 42-hour power reserve and an Exactomatic system (a longstanding Vulcain patent). Essentially, it's a modification of the Incabloc endstones, which equalizes the friction on the balance-shaft and improves regulation of the amplitude (decreasing wear and increasing accuracy).
The movement itself is beveled and well-finished with dressage throughout. Nice finish on crown and ratchet wheels usually entails a sunburst or volute pattern, but Vulcain carved the wheels into a sunny shape, giving them an exotic, almost Aztec-like feel.
Lastly, the '50s President Cricket is also available with another feature aside from color ?a bezel encrusted with 80 diamonds. Heritage, innovation and quality aside ?that which guides even the most discerning fake watch lover is love at first sight, and a little glimmer may go a long way to enticing members of the ever increasing and fashion-conscious mechanical fake watch crowd.
The new '50s President Cricket is available in stainless for 5,200 euro and, for those du mode frappant, in gem-set form for 8,850 euro.
For more information, visit Vulcain online.
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